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City Guide
Fresh Vietnamese gains ground in Silver Lake
Vietnamese
cuisine obtains a significant style upgrade at Gingergrass,
the chic and comfortably cozy restaurant that resides
on Silver Lake's outskirts. The restaurant is a natural
draw for the neighborhood's mod community, which spreads
itself delicately across Gingergrass's polished wood
bistro tables and along the stretched, wall-hugging
couch to sip heart-racing drip-brewed coffee and nibble
chili-packed pork baguette sandwiches. Southeast Asian
culinary fans, particularly those accustomed to the
cheap and tasty eats of crowded San Gabriel and Alhambra
cafes, may be surprised to see traditional pho soups
and tofu plates extending well over the standard six-dollar
price range, but they won't be disappointed with Gingergrass's
stringent requirements on fresh flavors for its dishes.
Savory starters such as the charbroiled sugar cane shrimp
and the signature Gingergrass fresh rolls with crab,
avocado, lettuce and cucumber and entrees like the wok-tossed
shaking beef and banana leaf fish with shiitake mushrooms
are strictly intended for slow consumption. -- Jesse
Torres
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